Queen Charlotte Sound

This is now the fruit and wine area of South Island. There are orchards – apples, pears, kiwi, hops, peaches everywhere and "wineries" off the main roads at many junctions. We are saving this for later! Our next destination is Marlborough and the Marlborough Sound.

These are rias on a grand scale. Flooded river valleys inundated by the sea following the last ice age. Ridges and islands running along the coastline and home to the famous Queen Charlotte Drive (by road) and Queen Charlotte Track (walkers and mountain bikes). We arrange to take the water taxi from Picton to the track's end/start point at Ship Cove. Landing place, a number of times, of Captain Scott duri9ng his many explorations and navigations through the South Pacific. There is a monument and some very interesting display panels, but we can't delay too long as we shall be picked up after 15 km at Furneax Lodge along the Sound. This is one of the great walks and takes us through native bush and forest along the coastline with views along the coast from our higher position on the track as it climbs and works its way along the ridge and around a number of headlands. At our destination a full pub, complete with TV showing the Olympics and selling cold beer, which I enjoy while Mary has a mochacino. The boat returning us to Picton detours across the Sound to track a pod of bottlenose dolphins who are busy creating a bait ball of fish and diving and jumping in a small circle. Spectacular!

Able Tasman National Park - Not to be missed

We are headed for the Nelson area and Able Tasman National Park. Just about everybody has told us it needs to be on our must do list and we are not disappointed! The camp site, the Barn is at the start of the Able Tasman track and we park up overlooking the sea. We have arranged two trips. For Caro and Benji a day of kayaking along the coast, a night at a DOC walker's hut and a day walking, returning by water taxi at the end of the second day. Mary and I have opted for a half day's kayak and a half day walking, using water taxi's at both ends of the day. I am glad to have opted for only half a day in the kayak! We see seals and seal pups up close off Tonga Island. Brilliant; but the nine km of kayak are far too demanding!

The walk back down the coast is full of scenic wonders! We are picked up by water taxi from the beach and taken back to our base at Marahau. The next day Mary and I walk the first part of the Able Tasman which we have so far managed to miss and it is one of the best bits! As we do a there and back walk we are able to enjoy seeing the coastline at both high and low tides. In the evening we have an excellent meal and watch a spectacular sun set. We take far too long over it and have the walk back to the camp site lit only by the stars of a now familiar southern hemisphere sky

The Buller Valley - Sand Flies!

We continued north and ran into the Westport marathon and half marathon event which slowed our progress; on leaving the super market we then ran into the family fun run! We were fortunately able to miss the runners, though there was a close shave when an old lady directed the massed runners directly into our road! We stopped for lunch in the Buller Valley, the river in full spate after the heavy rain during the previous night; and again to experience New Zealand's longest swing suspension bridge. For five bucks each provided a quite scary walk across the raging torrent below. We stayed the night in a Department for Conservation (DOC) camp site. A free site beside an old disused railway. This was our second choice as the first was abandoned when we saw the number of sand flies swarming around the van! These nasty little beasts are the plague of South Island. Visit, but come prepared and even then expect to be bitten. Use insect repellent, bring Anthisan and other anti-histamine, boost your use of vitamin B; some say eat marmite and avoid bananas!

We were awoken twice during the night by a passing vehicle and shouts of "Wake up!" and the blasting of a car horn. I suppose that's the most entertainment young people get in the Buller Valley.

Punakaiki - The Pancake Rocks

We stayed at a lovely site, just behind the beach. A typical west coast coastline with white sand, trees washed up on the beach with low cliffs backing the sand. There was a wedding taking place on the beach, we sat and enjoyed the late afternoon sun and watched the waves tumbling in. The next morning we were able to visit the amazing rock formations at Punakaiki. Known as the pancake rocks, these are sea sculpted cliffs with caverns, rock stacks, surge caverns and blow holes and are very spectacular as it was high tide and the weather had been stormy overnight.

Flight over Glacier Country

Mary had wanted to take a flight onto the glacier but the following day helicopters were all full. "A seat may be available at 11.00, but we won't know until we see the size of one of the passengers who have booked. Yes it is a six seater but we have a note for four passengers only." Americans? So an alternative light aircraft flight was found instead. Mary sat in the co-pilot's seat and had a wonderful time! She will want to show her photos and share her experience on return, so you'll have to wait for our return for full details!

Trekking on Franz Joseph Glacier

One of the most amazing experiences of a trip which has been filled with them. From Franz Joseph town we were taken by bus to the start of the walk to the Franz Joseph Glacier. The scale of the glacier is difficult to describe and although it looked no distance away it was almost an hour before we reached the safety ropes. At this point our guide Cliff (insert your own sea gull gag) took us into the area at the base of the glacier's terminal moraine and we put the crampons onto our boots ready for our day adventure walk on the ice. The first part was a steep climb up the face of the glacier, a mix of rock debris and ice, which had steps roughly cut into the ice forming a rough staircase over the terminal moraine. Eventually we reached the "clean" ice, a gleaming mix of white and blue ice with a dusting of rock dust. Cliff took us into crevasses, cutting a pathway of steps as he went.

There were some spectacular moments – Mary threw herself into Benji's arms at one point as we climbed down into a crevasse; I managed a particularly spectacular trip and fell headlong on the ice, slithering forward, penguin like on my front! At one point as we passed through an ice arch I also managed to step into a deep puddle of icy glacial melt up to my knee. Cold? Yessss!

Glacier Country

It is raining when we wake. We head up the coast, making for glacier country. We stop at Fox Glacier and walk up to the terminal face. This is really impressive, a massive wall of ice with a river emerging from its base. It is cold as well, with blocks of ice floating down the river through a scene of total devastation. The consequence of centuries of ice movements in this valley. Although we plan to do a glacier walk tomorrow we will do this at Franz Joseph glacier a short distance up the coast where we plan to stay for the next couple of nights.

Crossing the Southern Alps

The drive across the Haast Pass is spectacular with narrow roads, single lane bridges, high mountains and plunging waterfalls into tumbling rivers. Rather incongruously we stop and park alongside two British registered jaguar cars, part of a group of jaguar enthusiasts who are touring NZ having shipped their cars out (two per container) for a one month tour.

The Haast coastline is spectacular with wild windswept beaches and rocky cliffs with rainforest tumbling down to sea level from the mist shrouded mountains. Our campsite tonight will be a Department of Conservation (DOC) site at Lake Paringa. Basic, cheap but in great locations. It is by a lake formed as part of the geological movement of the Indo-Australian plate which is both sliding along and underneath the Pacific Plate.

The drive across Cental Otago

An early departure as we are heading back into the mountains with Wanaka our destination. The drive follows the old gold route north from the coast and after some miles runs parallel to the long distance Otago Central Rail Trail, now a cycle and walking route. It crosses our route many times and we reflect that this might be something for a future visit to NZ. Wanaka is another lakeside town and we are surrounded once more by high mountains and snow capped peaks. Our overnight stop, where we decide to remain for two days, is on the lakeside and in open bush. Like almost all the sites where we have stayed there are good facilities.

We eat out in the town and the following day we decide to do a walk up the lakeside. It is hot and the walk is through farmland and open countryside. The views across the lake are stunning. Our destination is a lake beach which we find after two and a half hours of walking has the timber debris of several winters, bleached misshapen pieces of wood in stacks at high water level from several years. We swim! It is cold but very refreshing after the walk, and a temporary escape from attack by sand fly...the plague of which is the curse of NZ!

The Otago Peninsular

Before leaving Dunedin we set off for a tour of the Otago Peninsular. The coast road is spectacular with blue seas and skies. We visit a garden at Lanarch Castle with views over Otago harbour then continue to Taiaroa Head where the albatross colony has become an attraction. A very expensive attraction which we opt not to visit! The continuing drive to Sandfly Bay is spectacular and on arrival we head across the dunes for the beach. This is a fur seal area and there are many resting up on the beach, flicking sand over their backs as they lie in the sun. This is another penguin site and although we don't see them here, their footprints are visible as they cross the dry sand at the head of the beach and disappear into the dunes.

Our site for the night is back in Dunedin where the owner's son has a cabin adjacent to our pitch and offers the use of his barbecue to cook! I have never seen one like it and take great pleasure in preparing our evening meal.

Visit to Ali and Knott family in Dunedin

We are made to feel very welcome and though not an ideal time to visit, they are about to sell the house and have an open day the next day as well as a birthday party for Mia. We watch the sunset from the balcony at the back of the house, enjoy a delicious supper and are entertained to a concert performance by Helen and Mia. Wonderful hospitality and sleep in a bed for the Mary and I. Very welcome after our first full week in the van!

Brush with nature 2

The following morning Mary wakes us to tell us that a sea lion is on the grass in the camp site. This proves to be the first of several who come out of the sea in Porpoise Bay and after f frolicking in the waves make their way onto the beach and continue to play together on the sand. They remain unperturbed as I take my camera down onto the beach for some close up photography! These will appear on Facebook on return!

We move on to visit some sea caves and then after further visits along this beautiful and unspoiled coastline we make contact with Ali Knott and head for Dunedin.

Brush with Nature 1

From Te Anau we head south and east with Dunedin our destination and an evening with Mary's cousin Ali and his family. En route we decide to visit the coastline of the Catlins. One of the attractions is that this coast is known for its native wildlife. The drive to Invercargill and on to the coast is less spectacular than where we have been to date, but the journey proves worth it.


















We decide to camp at Curio Bay, where the guides say there is a chance of seeing rare yellow eyed penguins. The camp site is in a magnificent setting with the rocky headland of Curio Bay and the wild Pacific on one side of the headland where we park up for the night, and Porpoise Bay on the other. We check with the site office and are told to go straight to the Bay as the penguins come out of the ocean in the evening at this time of year to feed their young. The timing is perfect and we are on the beach only minutes before the first penguins arrive. As they waddle up the rocky beach they start to call out to their young and the chicks emerge from the sand and rocks at the head of the beach to be fed. A great sight!

Glow Worm Caves Te Anau

New Zealand has lived up to expectations. A combination of magnificent scenery with marvels of the natural world.

From Te Anau we visit glow worm caves on the other side of the lake which requires an evening cruise followed by a walk into the cave and then a subterranean boat trip in pitch darkness with just the lights from a million glow worms in the rocky roof above us. We arrive back late at night for Caroline to have a telephone interview for a job back in the UK. We hear the following day that she has been successful.

Apologies for poor posting on our holiday blog!

Have been just too busy having a wonderful trip to update the blog for several days. Lots of reading to catch up with! We are taking loads of photographs and will add some to Facebook on our return!

Te Anau

We are now using the camper van to see more of the South Island, starting here at Te Anau. We have used this lovely lake side town as a base for a couple of days and have been exploring the area and doing some short walks in the area. Today these included Miror Lakes....

Tonight we went on a visit to the Te Anau Glow Worm caves. It rounded off another fantastic day. Can't recommend a visit to NZ strongly enough. Tomorrow we move on, heading south towards Dunedin.

and

New Zealand

We have now moved on from Oz to Nz. Arrived at Queenstown airport in the heart of the Southern Alps. The town is in a beautiful setting... an enormous lake surrounded by mountains. It has been warm and sunny most of the time we have been here. One day exception which was during the last day of our Routeburn walk.

http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/southland/te-anau-area/routeburn-track/

The Routeburn really lived up to our expectations, probably exceeded them! The start is at Glenorchy along the lake from Queenstown. We climbed steadily through the beech forest chris crossing the river on suspension bridges and passed the most amazing of waterfalls. The water an amazing colour.

The first night was spent in the Falls Hut; and the following day we climbed the last section up to the Harris Saddle, with stunning views of the surrounding mountains still covered in snow at this the middl of summer in NZ. The track follows the contours with a drop down to the next hut at MacKenzie Lake. Beautiful!

Mary swam in the glacially cold water! I paddled!

The last day started with rain. However it justified all the wet weather clothing we had been carrying! It stopped as we finished the track.

Stayed overnight at Milford Sound in a lodge and went on a nature boat trip out on the sound the following day. Another amazing experience. This is one of the most spectacular places we have ever visited. The scenery is stunning and the wildlife is all around with fur seals basking on the rocks and dolphins performing around the boat.

Day 5 on Allegro 24th January

We wake a little later this morning. Butterfly Bay is in sunshine though in both directions the coast looks grey and overcast. We decide to move along the island for a good snorkeling site and while Mary goes ashore in the tender the rest of us don our stinger suits and take to the water. The fish are as usual - stunning in number, variety and colour. The highlight for Benji and Caroline was swimming with a giant turtle which put in an appearance at the surface for us all to enjoy. After our late breakfast no one is really very hungry for lunch. We move on around the north end of Hook Island and with rather strong winds and lumpy seas we decide to put ashore in the dinghy to take a look at Langford Island and the spit of sand out to One Foot Island. A helicopter sits on the spit. It is a rather rough crossing and we all get wet! It is a rising tide and we have heard a weather forecast warning of the imminent arrival of the tropical cyclone Neville!

The decision is made to head for a sheltered anchorage in Nara Inlet. We are clearly not the only ones to make this prudent decision and we join the convoy heading along the coast. As we enter the mouth of the inlet Mary spots dolphin tracking us and we reach for cameras!

We are dropping the anchor just as the downfall reaches us and are glad to be under cover. It may be the dying days of the cyclone, but the rain is spectacular. We open a few beers and check out our supplies for pre-dinner nibbles.

Day 4 on Allegro 23rd January

We start the new day with snorkeling on the reef in Cateran Bay before breakfast wraps and the sail between the islands, heading for Hook Island. The winds have strengthened and for the first time on our trip we have a threat of rain. We keep adjusting sails and with Charlie on the helm we run at some pace with a following sea. Exciting stuff as we reach maximum speed of 14.99 knots, this time with John on the helm. We enter Luncheon Bay with Luncheon in mind.

We follow the coast of Hook Island past a number of other inlets and bays to our destination for the evening, a buoy in Butterfly Bay. A beautiful deep bay reaching into Hook Island, with steep rocky and wooded sides into very deep water. We have a few hard shows and the wind strengthens and swings Allegro on her mooring. More snorkeling; Benji returns a beautiful shell to add to the collection we appear to be making.

The afternoon ends with cards backgammon and G&Ts. A hard life. As darkness falls we prepare supper – garlic prawns, salmon and homemade coleslaw with white wine then cheeses and biscuits with red! Should sleep well tonight! We end the day with the Name Game. The Vardys against the skipper and rest of the crew. The Vardy team are resoundingly beaten!

Day 2 on Allegro 21st January

Today we are planning to experience Whitehaven Beach, the classic view of the Whitsundays which graces a thousand publicity posters and postcards. But first a snorkel on the reef off Chalkies Beach on Haslewood Island where we have anchored overnight. A gold site and it is not hard to understand why. Coral in a myriad of colours and an abundance of fish. We breakfast back aboard then raise the sails to cross Whitehaven Bay to drop anchor in Tongue Bay and put ashore in the dinghy. We take the track to the lookout for wonderful views over Whitehaven beach and Hill Inlet. The sand is fine and very white. We stroll along the beach and try to capture this magical place in photographs – probably impossible!

We return to Allegro spotting giant turtles (up to a metre across) surfacing all around the bay. More photo opportunities, then lunch.

Our next sail is north to Border Island where we drop anchor in Cateran Bay. A large Oz Sail trimaran has picked up the buoy we were planning to use, so we hope that they will move on before dusk. We review the images of the day with some satisfaction.

Day 1 on Allegro 20th January

Very little sleep in what feels like a sauna. We have breakfast on Allegro making use of the onboard barbecue at the stern of the boat to cook bacon for the bacon rolls which are quickly devoured. We cast off and leave harbour, heading for our first snorkeling experience at Stonehaven Bay. Winds are good and we soon have the sails up and with a few long tacks we are able to make our destination and pick up a buoy. We don stinger suits (imagine fine figure hugging fishnets – I know, not a pretty sight) and enter the water.

Words cannot describe the experience, we are snorkeling on some of the best inshore reefs the Whitsundays have to offer and they abound with wonderful coral structures and an abundance of fish. They are totally unperturbed by the large dark figures swimming just above them and we see thousands of fish, of all shapes, sizes and colours. My favourites – the banded humbug (it is as it sounds banded black and white); the yellow tailed fusilier (blue with a yellow tail) angelfish, butterfly fish, and parrotfish (all in many colours and patterns). We have a late lunch and sail south through the Whitsunday passage and off the coast of Whitsunday Island itself. The sea is turquoise blue, the sky a deeper shade.

We drop anchor as the sun is setting and enjoy cold beers from the eski and supper of Jamie Oliver prawn and pea risotto with white wine.

Townsville to Airlie Beach 19th January

Mary and I breakfast overlooking the ocean in the same beachside bar/restaurant then pick up Caro and Benji from their friends and set off for the rest of the road trip down Route 1 (the Bruce Highway) headed for Airlie Beach. Road is much more of the same as previous day, sugar cane and bananas with some open grassland. This is no longer as arid as earlier on this leg of our journey.

We arrive ar Airlie, Drive straight to the marina and are taken to the boat. Benji has arranged the charter with the company he has been working with Queensland Yacht Charters www.yachtcharters.com.au The Allegro is a 40 foot (11.9 metres) catamaran with a beam of around 19 feet. It has berths for eight and as we shall be a maximum of six people (Myself and Mary, Caroline and Benji and two of Caro's friends, John and Charlie) there will be plenty of space for us. It has two Volvo Penta engines which are controlled from the helm where the technology available is amazing, and includes Satelite positioning and digital charts, push button autopilot and depth and speed gauges.

We unload luggage and stow it in our various cabins then head off to the supermarket to stock up for the week. We over cater on most things but are confident that wine and beer will all get consumed. Back to Allegro.

We eat out at a fish and rum bar – an interesting combination. We select the fish we want to be cooked, pay and collect our number. It is really good. Also good to meet some of Benji's friends while he was working here. Return via the boardwalk to the marina. It is a hot night and the air is still in the town.

Kuranda to Townsville 18th January

We have an early breakfast on the go as we need to be in Cairns to switch from the 4wd we have needed up beyond Cape Tribulation for a more appropriate saloon to get us down the coast. We are headed for Airlie Beach over the next two days and have a stop over for Caroline and Benji to visit some friends in Townsville en route. The descent to Cairns is once again through rain forest. The switch at Cairns is fast and we pick up a VW Jetta. This is very much a transit day between our northern cape week and the sailing Benji has planned for us in the Whitsundays.
The drive south is through cane and banana country, mile after mile. As we hear on the news tonight this is good for the economy as the price of sugar has doubled in the last couple of years.
We detour inland for an excursion to Little Crystal Creek, the falls and associated water holes for a dip and to cool off. The temperature has been in excess of 32 degrees all day, even with the air condition turned up full we all feel the need!

The falls and pools are great. We all enjoy the deep water in the plunge pools, the waterfalls and the plunge pools. There are smooth rocks to use as slides and the water is so deep that those adventurous enough are jumping from high rocks into the deep plunge pools. We drag ourselves away for the last leg of the day into Townsville.

We drop Caro and Benji and locate our waterfront motel. Basic but clean and well equipped. Air con, fridge, TV for the Australian Open! We join the joggers for a walk along the strand and have a couple of ice cold beers with fish and chips, overlooking the ocean and Magnetic Island as the sun sets around 6.30 and tropical darkness arrives. Arrive back at motel to discover that Nadal is playing.

Airlie Beach

We have moved from mthe tropical rain forest in the north of Queensland to start our week of sailing in the Whitsundays. The boat is rather superior and we have provisioned well for the next six days.

Likely to be out of touch until our return to the mainland.

Kuranda

We heard this morning that there had been heavy rain in the night, we'd slept through it! An early start with breakfast once again at the bakery and then on the sealed road this time, south back towards Cairns. This route follows the Great Dividing Range and is open bush, termite mounds, and roos pretending to be termite mounds are everywhere. Benji is driving and evading action is essential at several points if we are to avoid adding to the road kill which provides a rich diet for the black kites which are common in the air above us.

This is a good road and we eat up the miles until arriving at Kuranda. The main feature here is the Barron River Gorge with the scenic railway and cable car which bring tourists up from Cairns. Not too many at this time of year. The Falls are spectacular even though there is very little water at the moment. The walk to get to them a spectacular boardwalk through the forest.

Wildlife feature - a gecko which Benji collects and places on Caro's hand.

We are staying in a Rainforest Resort so end afternoon swimming in pools in tropical rain. Eat in tonight, a good meal. And finally catch up on blog postings!

Cooktown

An early start to climb Mount Cook before it gets too hot. We drive to the foot and take the track through scrubby forest and over rocks until it becomes true forest. The signs warn of heat and slippery rocks. The track is well signed and we climb steadily through the rain forest with a variety of trees, all of which are unfamiliar. It is hot and very sticky with biting insects to make things worse. We reach the viewpoint at the lookout with fantastic views in both directions along the coast. The descent is faster. Signs say three hours for the return, we complete it in two hours ten minutes. Breakfast at the bakery cafe and then a 4wd excursion further north into Cape York. The earth becomes very red and we detour to see two waterfalls, evidence that th wet has not yet started as both are mere trickles of what they will be within a few days.

We visit the gardens and are “bitten to death” though wild wallabies make up for the discomfort. It is very hot and humid, uncomfortably so; the weather is about to change. The visit to the air conditioned local museum exceeds expectations. Fascinating exhibitions on Captain Cook, the development of Cooktown and the aboriginal population. Excellent.

Then a dip in the local pool before a shower and change for supper at the local bowls club. This was justifiably recommended by Mark at the farmstay at Cape Trib. Ahead of that we climb Grassy Hill to see the view over the coastline as the sun is setting. Great views and a very different lighthouse constructed in corrugated iron. Flash two Flash....six seven Flash.

As we return to Pam's Place for our second night the sky is lit up with the beginnings of a tropical storm.

Cape Tribulation to Cooktown

We eat more fruit and then make our farewells to Mark the owners son. Dawn has gone to Cairns for a few days. We take the coast route from Cape Trib, the Bloomfield Track built amidst great protestations from environmentalist which proved to be a catalyst for world heritage status, a ban on logging, and has achieved much of what the protestors (who buried themselves up to their necks in the mud along the route), had set out to achieve in terms of conservation. We head north with Caro and Benji taking turns to drive. The 4wd takes creeks and hilly sections in its stride and we arrive at Wujal Wujal (Bloomfield Falls) for a short walk to view the falls. Spectacular even at the end of the “dry”, though the wet should have begun by now we are relieved that this has been a relatively straight forward day.



We stop for cold beers at the famous Lions Den Hotel, a corrugated, graffiti covered, building with eclectic collection of caps, t-shirts, stubby holders and ephemeral in this bar in the middle of nowhere. An experience.

On to Cooktown for a further beach walk, a local swim and meal with more cold beers at the Top Bar. Play cards and plan for the following day before an early night.

Cape Tribulation

We help ourselves to breakfast and are provided with two fruit baskets with a selection of fruits grown here. The mangoes are amazing, and freshly cut sugar bananas are offered for tasting. Later we are shown the packing shed and process of getting fruit ready for the market. We stay a while to help before heading to Cape Trib itself, the lookout and a second beach walk. There are only a few people on the beach, which is of pure white sand and is backed by the rainforest. We walk north and curse that we are here during stinger season which means we cannot enter the water. At all beach access points there are warning signs and bottles of vinegar, essential first aid for the less dangerous stingers in the water at this time.

We drive up the unsealed road to Emmagen Creek where we know of a further swimming hole. It is close to the creek crossing which we use, the first real test for our 4wd. It takes this in its stride, unlike a car which has somehow crossed the creek northbound and now attempts to recross heading south! Entertaining for the smug onlookers but a calamity for the driver and his passengers. Benji tries to gather a crew to assist but the car driver doesn't heed advice and is digging the car deeper into the water. We return to the car and Caro drives us through the creek and past the stranded car.

We lunch at the Cassawary Cafe and discover that it has a small pool which we make use of for an afternoon of reading, swimming and sleeping in the shade. On departure I add to my collection of images of spiders. This evening we are meeting up with two of Caro's friends for supper at “whet” a restaurant owned by some of their relatives

Port Douglas to Cape Tribulation

A morning dip inside the stinger protection net before breakfast creekside round by the harbour and one of the best locations for a church that could be imagined. We head up the coast towards Mossman having decided to check out the waterhole at Mossman Gorge for a swim and a walk with an aboriginal guide in the reserve.

The water hole is a swimming area amongst waterfalls below the Gorge lookout. Benji soon gets to grip with the slide down the top falls while Caro and I make our entrance to the water from just below this point and are quickly whisked down the creek. It is exhilarating stuff and we find ourselves swimming with River Perch of some size.

We sign up for a forest walk with an aboriginal guide. Rodney knows his stuff and takes us on a walk within the aboriginal reserve. The walk is a real education with plants pointed out for their food and medicinal purposes and the significance of specific locations explained. The walk ends with a request for a performance on the Didg. Both Benji and I make a reasonable effort and I have been practicing the blow and breathe technique ever since.

Pass through cane country, miles of it, cross the Daintree River and enter the Daintree National Park. The road follows the coastline, sometimes at sea level and there are tempting views of the ocean with perfect beaches to our right and dense jungle to our left. We stop at Thornton Beach for a beach walk and first find of the day a perfect tortoise shell of good size on the tide line.

Second find of the day is Gray's Farmstay our accommodation for the next two nights. A warm welcome from Dawn the owner, we are treated to tea and a taste from a selection of the variety of fruits grown here. Our individual cabins are located amongst the fruit trees with views of Mount Sorrow. Supper and a few beers at the Cape Trib beachside bistro. We are in paradise!

Trains and boats and planes... well train from Burpangary to Eagle Junction and change for the Domestic Terminal, check in and fly to Cairns. At last we meet up with Caroline and Benji.

The hire car is painless and we soon leave Cairns for the drive up the coast for Port Douglas and our first overnight stop. We cannot resist a walk along the beach, the first where the rain forest touches the ocean. The accommodation is much better than we had been led to believe with a small swimming pool to use before a stroll along the main street and supper at 2fish. Seafood; what else?

Moreton Island

Lincoln suggested a visit to Moreton island for today as both he and Hannah had to go to work. An early start to the day for the drive to Brisbane for the 7.30 ferry across to the island. Arrived to see dolphins playing in the shallows and coralling fish; I've seen it on TV with commentary by David Attenborough, but this was real life and only twenty feet away!

A stroll along the beach and a shady spot found with a view of the wreck, used by divers and snorklers. Swimming and reading the order of the day.

At the end of the day we enjoyed taking part in the feeding of the wild dolphins which come, regular as clockwork, at dusk to feed from the hand. A great experience.

Hannah and Lincoln were at the ferry terminal back in Brisbane and we were back at Deception Bay at 10.00 pm

Tomorrow we leave to meet Caro and Benji at the airport at Cairns.

Caloundra Beach

Saw an osprey hover, dive and catch a fish off the beach here today. Must have been a big fish, the bird could hardly fly back to the nearby cliffs, just skimming the wave tops of the Pacific breakers! More sun, more swimming and a short walk along the shore. This is paradise with palms, sun, sea and sand!

Noosa

Today is Saturday so Hannah and Lincoln were able to take us out for a day up the coast. Tropical temperatures today so glad that the "ute" has aircon, though the "combi" relies entirely on open windows and air flow.

Hannah has now developed the same shocker of a cold which Mary brought with us from the UK. I guess that our fellow passengers between London Heathrow and Singapore and Singapore - Brisbane are all in a similar state!

Noosa is a classy up market resort north up the coast from Deception Bay where we have been based since our arrival. White sands, blue Pacific ocean with gentle breakers and blue, blue sky! A wonderful day here in paradise!

The sea was warm so we all swam then just dried off in the sunshine.

Drove back in time for a fish and chip supper back in Deception Bay.

Brisbane - city in the sun!

Having seen the weather reports from the UK and all the pictures of snow just thought that I ought to point out that here in Oz we are living in T shirts and shorts, eating out here on the deck until after ten.

We did wake to a tropical storm this morning, but by ten the worst had passed and the speed of evaporation had quickly dried things out. Took the train from Burpengary into the city centre of Brisbane today. Don't the Australians have great names for their towns and cities?

The stations into the city include some classic names... Burpengary, Narangba, Dakabin and Petrie; Bald Hills, Geebung and Sunshine. Really liked Brisbane, especially the parks - inluding South Bank with its water zone for swimming and fun in the fountains. A great place for people watching.

Mary also enjoyed watching live tennis on the giant screen here while we lay on the grass in the warm sun.

Aren't leeches just amazing?

Our first day here in Queensland staying with niece Hannah and her partner Lincoln. Great hospitality! Today Hannah took us in the new "ute" for a tour north of Brisbane, up the Bruce Highway and off onto the Irwin Highway. "Crikey" we even passed Australia Zoo as we headed into the region around the Glasshouse Mountains.

Lots of agriculture with mangoes and avocados for sale by the sides of the road.

A brief stop for a coffee at Maleny and on to the Kondalilla National Park and the Kondalilla Falls.

This is tropical rainforest and it is raining lightly as we set off from the car park. But before long the rainfall is appropriately tropical. The forest scenery is spectacular as are the falls themselves, but on return we discover that we have a small collection of leeches between us. Niece Hannah a beaut between her toes, I have three and nephew Will who joined us from NZ takes the title of leechman with five!

Saturday 2nd January 2010 - The Final Countdown

Excitement levels mount as Mary and Ian prepare to leave the freezing weather of the northern hemisphere for a two month trip to Australia and New Zealand.