Queen Charlotte Sound

This is now the fruit and wine area of South Island. There are orchards – apples, pears, kiwi, hops, peaches everywhere and "wineries" off the main roads at many junctions. We are saving this for later! Our next destination is Marlborough and the Marlborough Sound.

These are rias on a grand scale. Flooded river valleys inundated by the sea following the last ice age. Ridges and islands running along the coastline and home to the famous Queen Charlotte Drive (by road) and Queen Charlotte Track (walkers and mountain bikes). We arrange to take the water taxi from Picton to the track's end/start point at Ship Cove. Landing place, a number of times, of Captain Scott duri9ng his many explorations and navigations through the South Pacific. There is a monument and some very interesting display panels, but we can't delay too long as we shall be picked up after 15 km at Furneax Lodge along the Sound. This is one of the great walks and takes us through native bush and forest along the coastline with views along the coast from our higher position on the track as it climbs and works its way along the ridge and around a number of headlands. At our destination a full pub, complete with TV showing the Olympics and selling cold beer, which I enjoy while Mary has a mochacino. The boat returning us to Picton detours across the Sound to track a pod of bottlenose dolphins who are busy creating a bait ball of fish and diving and jumping in a small circle. Spectacular!

Able Tasman National Park - Not to be missed

We are headed for the Nelson area and Able Tasman National Park. Just about everybody has told us it needs to be on our must do list and we are not disappointed! The camp site, the Barn is at the start of the Able Tasman track and we park up overlooking the sea. We have arranged two trips. For Caro and Benji a day of kayaking along the coast, a night at a DOC walker's hut and a day walking, returning by water taxi at the end of the second day. Mary and I have opted for a half day's kayak and a half day walking, using water taxi's at both ends of the day. I am glad to have opted for only half a day in the kayak! We see seals and seal pups up close off Tonga Island. Brilliant; but the nine km of kayak are far too demanding!

The walk back down the coast is full of scenic wonders! We are picked up by water taxi from the beach and taken back to our base at Marahau. The next day Mary and I walk the first part of the Able Tasman which we have so far managed to miss and it is one of the best bits! As we do a there and back walk we are able to enjoy seeing the coastline at both high and low tides. In the evening we have an excellent meal and watch a spectacular sun set. We take far too long over it and have the walk back to the camp site lit only by the stars of a now familiar southern hemisphere sky

The Buller Valley - Sand Flies!

We continued north and ran into the Westport marathon and half marathon event which slowed our progress; on leaving the super market we then ran into the family fun run! We were fortunately able to miss the runners, though there was a close shave when an old lady directed the massed runners directly into our road! We stopped for lunch in the Buller Valley, the river in full spate after the heavy rain during the previous night; and again to experience New Zealand's longest swing suspension bridge. For five bucks each provided a quite scary walk across the raging torrent below. We stayed the night in a Department for Conservation (DOC) camp site. A free site beside an old disused railway. This was our second choice as the first was abandoned when we saw the number of sand flies swarming around the van! These nasty little beasts are the plague of South Island. Visit, but come prepared and even then expect to be bitten. Use insect repellent, bring Anthisan and other anti-histamine, boost your use of vitamin B; some say eat marmite and avoid bananas!

We were awoken twice during the night by a passing vehicle and shouts of "Wake up!" and the blasting of a car horn. I suppose that's the most entertainment young people get in the Buller Valley.

Punakaiki - The Pancake Rocks

We stayed at a lovely site, just behind the beach. A typical west coast coastline with white sand, trees washed up on the beach with low cliffs backing the sand. There was a wedding taking place on the beach, we sat and enjoyed the late afternoon sun and watched the waves tumbling in. The next morning we were able to visit the amazing rock formations at Punakaiki. Known as the pancake rocks, these are sea sculpted cliffs with caverns, rock stacks, surge caverns and blow holes and are very spectacular as it was high tide and the weather had been stormy overnight.

Flight over Glacier Country

Mary had wanted to take a flight onto the glacier but the following day helicopters were all full. "A seat may be available at 11.00, but we won't know until we see the size of one of the passengers who have booked. Yes it is a six seater but we have a note for four passengers only." Americans? So an alternative light aircraft flight was found instead. Mary sat in the co-pilot's seat and had a wonderful time! She will want to show her photos and share her experience on return, so you'll have to wait for our return for full details!

Trekking on Franz Joseph Glacier

One of the most amazing experiences of a trip which has been filled with them. From Franz Joseph town we were taken by bus to the start of the walk to the Franz Joseph Glacier. The scale of the glacier is difficult to describe and although it looked no distance away it was almost an hour before we reached the safety ropes. At this point our guide Cliff (insert your own sea gull gag) took us into the area at the base of the glacier's terminal moraine and we put the crampons onto our boots ready for our day adventure walk on the ice. The first part was a steep climb up the face of the glacier, a mix of rock debris and ice, which had steps roughly cut into the ice forming a rough staircase over the terminal moraine. Eventually we reached the "clean" ice, a gleaming mix of white and blue ice with a dusting of rock dust. Cliff took us into crevasses, cutting a pathway of steps as he went.

There were some spectacular moments – Mary threw herself into Benji's arms at one point as we climbed down into a crevasse; I managed a particularly spectacular trip and fell headlong on the ice, slithering forward, penguin like on my front! At one point as we passed through an ice arch I also managed to step into a deep puddle of icy glacial melt up to my knee. Cold? Yessss!

Glacier Country

It is raining when we wake. We head up the coast, making for glacier country. We stop at Fox Glacier and walk up to the terminal face. This is really impressive, a massive wall of ice with a river emerging from its base. It is cold as well, with blocks of ice floating down the river through a scene of total devastation. The consequence of centuries of ice movements in this valley. Although we plan to do a glacier walk tomorrow we will do this at Franz Joseph glacier a short distance up the coast where we plan to stay for the next couple of nights.

Crossing the Southern Alps

The drive across the Haast Pass is spectacular with narrow roads, single lane bridges, high mountains and plunging waterfalls into tumbling rivers. Rather incongruously we stop and park alongside two British registered jaguar cars, part of a group of jaguar enthusiasts who are touring NZ having shipped their cars out (two per container) for a one month tour.

The Haast coastline is spectacular with wild windswept beaches and rocky cliffs with rainforest tumbling down to sea level from the mist shrouded mountains. Our campsite tonight will be a Department of Conservation (DOC) site at Lake Paringa. Basic, cheap but in great locations. It is by a lake formed as part of the geological movement of the Indo-Australian plate which is both sliding along and underneath the Pacific Plate.

The drive across Cental Otago

An early departure as we are heading back into the mountains with Wanaka our destination. The drive follows the old gold route north from the coast and after some miles runs parallel to the long distance Otago Central Rail Trail, now a cycle and walking route. It crosses our route many times and we reflect that this might be something for a future visit to NZ. Wanaka is another lakeside town and we are surrounded once more by high mountains and snow capped peaks. Our overnight stop, where we decide to remain for two days, is on the lakeside and in open bush. Like almost all the sites where we have stayed there are good facilities.

We eat out in the town and the following day we decide to do a walk up the lakeside. It is hot and the walk is through farmland and open countryside. The views across the lake are stunning. Our destination is a lake beach which we find after two and a half hours of walking has the timber debris of several winters, bleached misshapen pieces of wood in stacks at high water level from several years. We swim! It is cold but very refreshing after the walk, and a temporary escape from attack by sand fly...the plague of which is the curse of NZ!

The Otago Peninsular

Before leaving Dunedin we set off for a tour of the Otago Peninsular. The coast road is spectacular with blue seas and skies. We visit a garden at Lanarch Castle with views over Otago harbour then continue to Taiaroa Head where the albatross colony has become an attraction. A very expensive attraction which we opt not to visit! The continuing drive to Sandfly Bay is spectacular and on arrival we head across the dunes for the beach. This is a fur seal area and there are many resting up on the beach, flicking sand over their backs as they lie in the sun. This is another penguin site and although we don't see them here, their footprints are visible as they cross the dry sand at the head of the beach and disappear into the dunes.

Our site for the night is back in Dunedin where the owner's son has a cabin adjacent to our pitch and offers the use of his barbecue to cook! I have never seen one like it and take great pleasure in preparing our evening meal.

Visit to Ali and Knott family in Dunedin

We are made to feel very welcome and though not an ideal time to visit, they are about to sell the house and have an open day the next day as well as a birthday party for Mia. We watch the sunset from the balcony at the back of the house, enjoy a delicious supper and are entertained to a concert performance by Helen and Mia. Wonderful hospitality and sleep in a bed for the Mary and I. Very welcome after our first full week in the van!

Brush with nature 2

The following morning Mary wakes us to tell us that a sea lion is on the grass in the camp site. This proves to be the first of several who come out of the sea in Porpoise Bay and after f frolicking in the waves make their way onto the beach and continue to play together on the sand. They remain unperturbed as I take my camera down onto the beach for some close up photography! These will appear on Facebook on return!

We move on to visit some sea caves and then after further visits along this beautiful and unspoiled coastline we make contact with Ali Knott and head for Dunedin.

Brush with Nature 1

From Te Anau we head south and east with Dunedin our destination and an evening with Mary's cousin Ali and his family. En route we decide to visit the coastline of the Catlins. One of the attractions is that this coast is known for its native wildlife. The drive to Invercargill and on to the coast is less spectacular than where we have been to date, but the journey proves worth it.


















We decide to camp at Curio Bay, where the guides say there is a chance of seeing rare yellow eyed penguins. The camp site is in a magnificent setting with the rocky headland of Curio Bay and the wild Pacific on one side of the headland where we park up for the night, and Porpoise Bay on the other. We check with the site office and are told to go straight to the Bay as the penguins come out of the ocean in the evening at this time of year to feed their young. The timing is perfect and we are on the beach only minutes before the first penguins arrive. As they waddle up the rocky beach they start to call out to their young and the chicks emerge from the sand and rocks at the head of the beach to be fed. A great sight!

Glow Worm Caves Te Anau

New Zealand has lived up to expectations. A combination of magnificent scenery with marvels of the natural world.

From Te Anau we visit glow worm caves on the other side of the lake which requires an evening cruise followed by a walk into the cave and then a subterranean boat trip in pitch darkness with just the lights from a million glow worms in the rocky roof above us. We arrive back late at night for Caroline to have a telephone interview for a job back in the UK. We hear the following day that she has been successful.

Apologies for poor posting on our holiday blog!

Have been just too busy having a wonderful trip to update the blog for several days. Lots of reading to catch up with! We are taking loads of photographs and will add some to Facebook on our return!

Te Anau

We are now using the camper van to see more of the South Island, starting here at Te Anau. We have used this lovely lake side town as a base for a couple of days and have been exploring the area and doing some short walks in the area. Today these included Miror Lakes....

Tonight we went on a visit to the Te Anau Glow Worm caves. It rounded off another fantastic day. Can't recommend a visit to NZ strongly enough. Tomorrow we move on, heading south towards Dunedin.

and

New Zealand

We have now moved on from Oz to Nz. Arrived at Queenstown airport in the heart of the Southern Alps. The town is in a beautiful setting... an enormous lake surrounded by mountains. It has been warm and sunny most of the time we have been here. One day exception which was during the last day of our Routeburn walk.

http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/southland/te-anau-area/routeburn-track/

The Routeburn really lived up to our expectations, probably exceeded them! The start is at Glenorchy along the lake from Queenstown. We climbed steadily through the beech forest chris crossing the river on suspension bridges and passed the most amazing of waterfalls. The water an amazing colour.

The first night was spent in the Falls Hut; and the following day we climbed the last section up to the Harris Saddle, with stunning views of the surrounding mountains still covered in snow at this the middl of summer in NZ. The track follows the contours with a drop down to the next hut at MacKenzie Lake. Beautiful!

Mary swam in the glacially cold water! I paddled!

The last day started with rain. However it justified all the wet weather clothing we had been carrying! It stopped as we finished the track.

Stayed overnight at Milford Sound in a lodge and went on a nature boat trip out on the sound the following day. Another amazing experience. This is one of the most spectacular places we have ever visited. The scenery is stunning and the wildlife is all around with fur seals basking on the rocks and dolphins performing around the boat.