Sunday, 24 January 2010

Day 5 on Allegro 24th January

We wake a little later this morning. Butterfly Bay is in sunshine though in both directions the coast looks grey and overcast. We decide to move along the island for a good snorkeling site and while Mary goes ashore in the tender the rest of us don our stinger suits and take to the water. The fish are as usual - stunning in number, variety and colour. The highlight for Benji and Caroline was swimming with a giant turtle which put in an appearance at the surface for us all to enjoy. After our late breakfast no one is really very hungry for lunch. We move on around the north end of Hook Island and with rather strong winds and lumpy seas we decide to put ashore in the dinghy to take a look at Langford Island and the spit of sand out to One Foot Island. A helicopter sits on the spit. It is a rather rough crossing and we all get wet! It is a rising tide and we have heard a weather forecast warning of the imminent arrival of the tropical cyclone Neville!

The decision is made to head for a sheltered anchorage in Nara Inlet. We are clearly not the only ones to make this prudent decision and we join the convoy heading along the coast. As we enter the mouth of the inlet Mary spots dolphin tracking us and we reach for cameras!

We are dropping the anchor just as the downfall reaches us and are glad to be under cover. It may be the dying days of the cyclone, but the rain is spectacular. We open a few beers and check out our supplies for pre-dinner nibbles.

Day 4 on Allegro 23rd January

We start the new day with snorkeling on the reef in Cateran Bay before breakfast wraps and the sail between the islands, heading for Hook Island. The winds have strengthened and for the first time on our trip we have a threat of rain. We keep adjusting sails and with Charlie on the helm we run at some pace with a following sea. Exciting stuff as we reach maximum speed of 14.99 knots, this time with John on the helm. We enter Luncheon Bay with Luncheon in mind.

We follow the coast of Hook Island past a number of other inlets and bays to our destination for the evening, a buoy in Butterfly Bay. A beautiful deep bay reaching into Hook Island, with steep rocky and wooded sides into very deep water. We have a few hard shows and the wind strengthens and swings Allegro on her mooring. More snorkeling; Benji returns a beautiful shell to add to the collection we appear to be making.

The afternoon ends with cards backgammon and G&Ts. A hard life. As darkness falls we prepare supper – garlic prawns, salmon and homemade coleslaw with white wine then cheeses and biscuits with red! Should sleep well tonight! We end the day with the Name Game. The Vardys against the skipper and rest of the crew. The Vardy team are resoundingly beaten!

Day 2 on Allegro 21st January

Today we are planning to experience Whitehaven Beach, the classic view of the Whitsundays which graces a thousand publicity posters and postcards. But first a snorkel on the reef off Chalkies Beach on Haslewood Island where we have anchored overnight. A gold site and it is not hard to understand why. Coral in a myriad of colours and an abundance of fish. We breakfast back aboard then raise the sails to cross Whitehaven Bay to drop anchor in Tongue Bay and put ashore in the dinghy. We take the track to the lookout for wonderful views over Whitehaven beach and Hill Inlet. The sand is fine and very white. We stroll along the beach and try to capture this magical place in photographs – probably impossible!

We return to Allegro spotting giant turtles (up to a metre across) surfacing all around the bay. More photo opportunities, then lunch.

Our next sail is north to Border Island where we drop anchor in Cateran Bay. A large Oz Sail trimaran has picked up the buoy we were planning to use, so we hope that they will move on before dusk. We review the images of the day with some satisfaction.

Day 1 on Allegro 20th January

Very little sleep in what feels like a sauna. We have breakfast on Allegro making use of the onboard barbecue at the stern of the boat to cook bacon for the bacon rolls which are quickly devoured. We cast off and leave harbour, heading for our first snorkeling experience at Stonehaven Bay. Winds are good and we soon have the sails up and with a few long tacks we are able to make our destination and pick up a buoy. We don stinger suits (imagine fine figure hugging fishnets – I know, not a pretty sight) and enter the water.

Words cannot describe the experience, we are snorkeling on some of the best inshore reefs the Whitsundays have to offer and they abound with wonderful coral structures and an abundance of fish. They are totally unperturbed by the large dark figures swimming just above them and we see thousands of fish, of all shapes, sizes and colours. My favourites – the banded humbug (it is as it sounds banded black and white); the yellow tailed fusilier (blue with a yellow tail) angelfish, butterfly fish, and parrotfish (all in many colours and patterns). We have a late lunch and sail south through the Whitsunday passage and off the coast of Whitsunday Island itself. The sea is turquoise blue, the sky a deeper shade.

We drop anchor as the sun is setting and enjoy cold beers from the eski and supper of Jamie Oliver prawn and pea risotto with white wine.

Townsville to Airlie Beach 19th January

Mary and I breakfast overlooking the ocean in the same beachside bar/restaurant then pick up Caro and Benji from their friends and set off for the rest of the road trip down Route 1 (the Bruce Highway) headed for Airlie Beach. Road is much more of the same as previous day, sugar cane and bananas with some open grassland. This is no longer as arid as earlier on this leg of our journey.

We arrive ar Airlie, Drive straight to the marina and are taken to the boat. Benji has arranged the charter with the company he has been working with Queensland Yacht Charters www.yachtcharters.com.au The Allegro is a 40 foot (11.9 metres) catamaran with a beam of around 19 feet. It has berths for eight and as we shall be a maximum of six people (Myself and Mary, Caroline and Benji and two of Caro's friends, John and Charlie) there will be plenty of space for us. It has two Volvo Penta engines which are controlled from the helm where the technology available is amazing, and includes Satelite positioning and digital charts, push button autopilot and depth and speed gauges.

We unload luggage and stow it in our various cabins then head off to the supermarket to stock up for the week. We over cater on most things but are confident that wine and beer will all get consumed. Back to Allegro.

We eat out at a fish and rum bar – an interesting combination. We select the fish we want to be cooked, pay and collect our number. It is really good. Also good to meet some of Benji's friends while he was working here. Return via the boardwalk to the marina. It is a hot night and the air is still in the town.

Kuranda to Townsville 18th January

We have an early breakfast on the go as we need to be in Cairns to switch from the 4wd we have needed up beyond Cape Tribulation for a more appropriate saloon to get us down the coast. We are headed for Airlie Beach over the next two days and have a stop over for Caroline and Benji to visit some friends in Townsville en route. The descent to Cairns is once again through rain forest. The switch at Cairns is fast and we pick up a VW Jetta. This is very much a transit day between our northern cape week and the sailing Benji has planned for us in the Whitsundays.
The drive south is through cane and banana country, mile after mile. As we hear on the news tonight this is good for the economy as the price of sugar has doubled in the last couple of years.
We detour inland for an excursion to Little Crystal Creek, the falls and associated water holes for a dip and to cool off. The temperature has been in excess of 32 degrees all day, even with the air condition turned up full we all feel the need!

The falls and pools are great. We all enjoy the deep water in the plunge pools, the waterfalls and the plunge pools. There are smooth rocks to use as slides and the water is so deep that those adventurous enough are jumping from high rocks into the deep plunge pools. We drag ourselves away for the last leg of the day into Townsville.

We drop Caro and Benji and locate our waterfront motel. Basic but clean and well equipped. Air con, fridge, TV for the Australian Open! We join the joggers for a walk along the strand and have a couple of ice cold beers with fish and chips, overlooking the ocean and Magnetic Island as the sun sets around 6.30 and tropical darkness arrives. Arrive back at motel to discover that Nadal is playing.

Tuesday, 19 January 2010

Airlie Beach

We have moved from mthe tropical rain forest in the north of Queensland to start our week of sailing in the Whitsundays. The boat is rather superior and we have provisioned well for the next six days.

Likely to be out of touch until our return to the mainland.

Sunday, 17 January 2010

Kuranda

We heard this morning that there had been heavy rain in the night, we'd slept through it! An early start with breakfast once again at the bakery and then on the sealed road this time, south back towards Cairns. This route follows the Great Dividing Range and is open bush, termite mounds, and roos pretending to be termite mounds are everywhere. Benji is driving and evading action is essential at several points if we are to avoid adding to the road kill which provides a rich diet for the black kites which are common in the air above us.

This is a good road and we eat up the miles until arriving at Kuranda. The main feature here is the Barron River Gorge with the scenic railway and cable car which bring tourists up from Cairns. Not too many at this time of year. The Falls are spectacular even though there is very little water at the moment. The walk to get to them a spectacular boardwalk through the forest.

Wildlife feature - a gecko which Benji collects and places on Caro's hand.

We are staying in a Rainforest Resort so end afternoon swimming in pools in tropical rain. Eat in tonight, a good meal. And finally catch up on blog postings!

Cooktown

An early start to climb Mount Cook before it gets too hot. We drive to the foot and take the track through scrubby forest and over rocks until it becomes true forest. The signs warn of heat and slippery rocks. The track is well signed and we climb steadily through the rain forest with a variety of trees, all of which are unfamiliar. It is hot and very sticky with biting insects to make things worse. We reach the viewpoint at the lookout with fantastic views in both directions along the coast. The descent is faster. Signs say three hours for the return, we complete it in two hours ten minutes. Breakfast at the bakery cafe and then a 4wd excursion further north into Cape York. The earth becomes very red and we detour to see two waterfalls, evidence that th wet has not yet started as both are mere trickles of what they will be within a few days.

We visit the gardens and are “bitten to death” though wild wallabies make up for the discomfort. It is very hot and humid, uncomfortably so; the weather is about to change. The visit to the air conditioned local museum exceeds expectations. Fascinating exhibitions on Captain Cook, the development of Cooktown and the aboriginal population. Excellent.

Then a dip in the local pool before a shower and change for supper at the local bowls club. This was justifiably recommended by Mark at the farmstay at Cape Trib. Ahead of that we climb Grassy Hill to see the view over the coastline as the sun is setting. Great views and a very different lighthouse constructed in corrugated iron. Flash two Flash....six seven Flash.

As we return to Pam's Place for our second night the sky is lit up with the beginnings of a tropical storm.

Cape Tribulation to Cooktown

We eat more fruit and then make our farewells to Mark the owners son. Dawn has gone to Cairns for a few days. We take the coast route from Cape Trib, the Bloomfield Track built amidst great protestations from environmentalist which proved to be a catalyst for world heritage status, a ban on logging, and has achieved much of what the protestors (who buried themselves up to their necks in the mud along the route), had set out to achieve in terms of conservation. We head north with Caro and Benji taking turns to drive. The 4wd takes creeks and hilly sections in its stride and we arrive at Wujal Wujal (Bloomfield Falls) for a short walk to view the falls. Spectacular even at the end of the “dry”, though the wet should have begun by now we are relieved that this has been a relatively straight forward day.



We stop for cold beers at the famous Lions Den Hotel, a corrugated, graffiti covered, building with eclectic collection of caps, t-shirts, stubby holders and ephemeral in this bar in the middle of nowhere. An experience.

On to Cooktown for a further beach walk, a local swim and meal with more cold beers at the Top Bar. Play cards and plan for the following day before an early night.

Cape Tribulation

We help ourselves to breakfast and are provided with two fruit baskets with a selection of fruits grown here. The mangoes are amazing, and freshly cut sugar bananas are offered for tasting. Later we are shown the packing shed and process of getting fruit ready for the market. We stay a while to help before heading to Cape Trib itself, the lookout and a second beach walk. There are only a few people on the beach, which is of pure white sand and is backed by the rainforest. We walk north and curse that we are here during stinger season which means we cannot enter the water. At all beach access points there are warning signs and bottles of vinegar, essential first aid for the less dangerous stingers in the water at this time.

We drive up the unsealed road to Emmagen Creek where we know of a further swimming hole. It is close to the creek crossing which we use, the first real test for our 4wd. It takes this in its stride, unlike a car which has somehow crossed the creek northbound and now attempts to recross heading south! Entertaining for the smug onlookers but a calamity for the driver and his passengers. Benji tries to gather a crew to assist but the car driver doesn't heed advice and is digging the car deeper into the water. We return to the car and Caro drives us through the creek and past the stranded car.

We lunch at the Cassawary Cafe and discover that it has a small pool which we make use of for an afternoon of reading, swimming and sleeping in the shade. On departure I add to my collection of images of spiders. This evening we are meeting up with two of Caro's friends for supper at “whet” a restaurant owned by some of their relatives

Port Douglas to Cape Tribulation

A morning dip inside the stinger protection net before breakfast creekside round by the harbour and one of the best locations for a church that could be imagined. We head up the coast towards Mossman having decided to check out the waterhole at Mossman Gorge for a swim and a walk with an aboriginal guide in the reserve.

The water hole is a swimming area amongst waterfalls below the Gorge lookout. Benji soon gets to grip with the slide down the top falls while Caro and I make our entrance to the water from just below this point and are quickly whisked down the creek. It is exhilarating stuff and we find ourselves swimming with River Perch of some size.

We sign up for a forest walk with an aboriginal guide. Rodney knows his stuff and takes us on a walk within the aboriginal reserve. The walk is a real education with plants pointed out for their food and medicinal purposes and the significance of specific locations explained. The walk ends with a request for a performance on the Didg. Both Benji and I make a reasonable effort and I have been practicing the blow and breathe technique ever since.

Pass through cane country, miles of it, cross the Daintree River and enter the Daintree National Park. The road follows the coastline, sometimes at sea level and there are tempting views of the ocean with perfect beaches to our right and dense jungle to our left. We stop at Thornton Beach for a beach walk and first find of the day a perfect tortoise shell of good size on the tide line.

Second find of the day is Gray's Farmstay our accommodation for the next two nights. A warm welcome from Dawn the owner, we are treated to tea and a taste from a selection of the variety of fruits grown here. Our individual cabins are located amongst the fruit trees with views of Mount Sorrow. Supper and a few beers at the Cape Trib beachside bistro. We are in paradise!
Trains and boats and planes... well train from Burpangary to Eagle Junction and change for the Domestic Terminal, check in and fly to Cairns. At last we meet up with Caroline and Benji.

The hire car is painless and we soon leave Cairns for the drive up the coast for Port Douglas and our first overnight stop. We cannot resist a walk along the beach, the first where the rain forest touches the ocean. The accommodation is much better than we had been led to believe with a small swimming pool to use before a stroll along the main street and supper at 2fish. Seafood; what else?

Monday, 11 January 2010

Moreton Island

Lincoln suggested a visit to Moreton island for today as both he and Hannah had to go to work. An early start to the day for the drive to Brisbane for the 7.30 ferry across to the island. Arrived to see dolphins playing in the shallows and coralling fish; I've seen it on TV with commentary by David Attenborough, but this was real life and only twenty feet away!





















A stroll along the beach and a shady spot found with a view of the wreck, used by divers and snorklers. Swimming and reading the order of the day.

At the end of the day we enjoyed taking part in the feeding of the wild dolphins which come, regular as clockwork, at dusk to feed from the hand. A great experience.




Hannah and Lincoln were at the ferry terminal back in Brisbane and we were back at Deception Bay at 10.00 pm

Tomorrow we leave to meet Caro and Benji at the airport at Cairns.

Sunday, 10 January 2010

Caloundra Beach


Saw an osprey hover, dive and catch a fish off the beach here today. Must have been a big fish, the bird could hardly fly back to the nearby cliffs, just skimming the wave tops of the Pacific breakers! More sun, more swimming and a short walk along the shore. This is paradise with palms, sun, sea and sand!


Saturday, 9 January 2010

Noosa

Today is Saturday so Hannah and Lincoln were able to take us out for a day up the coast. Tropical temperatures today so glad that the "ute" has aircon, though the "combi" relies entirely on open windows and air flow.

Hannah has now developed the same shocker of a cold which Mary brought with us from the UK. I guess that our fellow passengers between London Heathrow and Singapore and Singapore - Brisbane are all in a similar state!
Noosa is a classy up market resort north up the coast from Deception Bay where we have been based since our arrival. White sands, blue Pacific ocean with gentle breakers and blue, blue sky! A wonderful day here in paradise!

The sea was warm so we all swam then just dried off in the sunshine.
Drove back in time for a fish and chip supper back in Deception Bay.




Friday, 8 January 2010

Brisbane - city in the sun!

Having seen the weather reports from the UK and all the pictures of snow just thought that I ought to point out that here in Oz we are living in T shirts and shorts, eating out here on the deck until after ten.

We did wake to a tropical storm this morning, but by ten the worst had passed and the speed of evaporation had quickly dried things out. Took the train from Burpengary into the city centre of Brisbane today. Don't the Australians have great names for their towns and cities?

The stations into the city include some classic names... Burpengary, Narangba, Dakabin and Petrie; Bald Hills, Geebung and Sunshine. Really liked Brisbane, especially the parks - inluding South Bank with its water zone for swimming and fun in the fountains. A great place for people watching.






Mary also enjoyed watching live tennis on the giant screen here while we lay on the grass in the warm sun.







Wednesday, 6 January 2010

Aren't leeches just amazing?

Our first day here in Queensland staying with niece Hannah and her partner Lincoln. Great hospitality! Today Hannah took us in the new "ute" for a tour north of Brisbane, up the Bruce Highway and off onto the Irwin Highway. "Crikey" we even passed Australia Zoo as we headed into the region around the Glasshouse Mountains.

Lots of agriculture with mangoes and avocados for sale by the sides of the road.

A brief stop for a coffee at Maleny and on to the Kondalilla National Park and the Kondalilla Falls.

This is tropical rainforest and it is raining lightly as we set off from the car park. But before long the rainfall is appropriately tropical. The forest scenery is spectacular as are the falls themselves, but on return we discover that we have a small collection of leeches between us. Niece Hannah a beaut between her toes, I have three and nephew Will who joined us from NZ takes the title of leechman with five!

Saturday, 2 January 2010

Saturday 2nd January 2010 - The Final Countdown

Excitement levels mount as Mary and Ian prepare to leave the freezing weather of the northern hemisphere for a two month trip to Australia and New Zealand.